Making a Dent!

Like I said before, I am trying to bust my way through my current WIP's.

I'm happy to report that I am making significant  progress!

This week I spent most of my time working on my Grandma Quilt.  The blocks have been done for awhile now, but I set about  putting them into top form this week. 

All those pinwheel seams were making me crazy, but after removing the bulk on over 200+ blocks I can now say I am pretty proficient at it!  Not my idea of a good time, though.

I thought I had the perfect vintage sheet for the backing in my stash already only to find that I had already cut into it! Bummer!  A search thru my favorite thrift stores this week yielded nothing as well.  So this quilt is on hold until I can find something I like.

--------------------------------------------------------

A little side project I also worked on was a "celebration" idea we came up with for quilt club.  This year marks the 10th anniversary of the club (I have only been in for 2.5 years).  After some discussion we decided to help each other make a quilt to honor the occasion.  

This is how it will work:  Each month the host of club gets to decide on her color scheme.  The rest of the members will then make her a 12.5" block (or 2)  in those colors.  After, she will have 12-24 blocks to make herself an "Anniversary Quilt."

It'll be fun to see what everyone chooses and comes up with.

This month Kae chose red/white/blue.  Since my ladies aren't too modern, I made her this block with some patriotic fabrics I've had for.ever! (They are churn dash blocks like my DQS)  I'm pretty sure she will love it, but quite frankly it's not really me.  

So, I decided to make her these scrappy postage stamp blocks as well.  They scream out "Emily" much more than the other one, don't ya think? 

I guess I'll giver her all 3 blocks and let her decide which ones make it in the quilt!

linking up to Finish It Up Friday @ crazymomquilts.
and WIP Wednesday @ Freshly Pieced

T-Shirt Series: Ruched Sleeves

Butterick 5562

Of my three girls, my middle daughter (age 12) is the fashion girl. 
She wanted this shirt (short sleeve version in white)...BAD! 
It was because of the sleeves.
I've seen these sleeves on clothing in Target for both little girls and not so little girls.



They are fairly easily to replicate.



If you want to ruche the sleeves on one of your favorite patterns here is what you do.
Cut the cap of your sleeve pattern about 5 inches higher than normal.



This shows the ruched piece with a regular inset sleeve piece on top so you can compare how they look.  The ruched pattern piece will also be gathered into the armhole, whereas the regular sleeve could just be eased in for a flat appearance.



Using 1/4" (or 1/8") elastic sewn into the sleeve on the wrong side of the fabric is what gives it the ruching.

On this pattern I used a 10 1/2" piece of elastic for the sleeve portion which measured 17" from cap to hem.  That's about 65% of the length.  So if you have your own pattern that you are adapting just keep that in mind.  You could definitely ruche it up more and then just cut your elastic a little shorter still.

Line up the elastic about 1/2" from the cap of the sleeve down to about 1" shy of the hem.
I just sewed a straight stitch right down the middle of the elastic.

It can be a little awkward stretching the elastic to fit into the sleeve.  Use as many pins as you need to hold it in place.  And really, if it isn't a perfectly straight line it shouldn't show.  It'll all be ruched up in the sleeve.

Some other changes just on the shirt itself:
We cut the front neckline slightly lower--maybe 1 inch, AND adjusted the shoulder seam so that it was not so boatneck style.  Extended the shoulder seam about 1 inch also.
'Cuz the fashion girl is particular about those things.



You can see my lines in blue showing where to cut and how I altered the pattern (size small).
Don't forget to extend the shoulders on both the front and back pieces.  Or you'll be really unhappy and end up cutting out another back piece.



______________________
I'm also loving the long sleeve green version with the draping/shawl collar. 
Daughter #1 is partial to that one too, in green.

I hope to show that one sometime soon, too.

Scrappy Bow Tie Swap

I found another fun swap to participate in and thought some of you might want to join as well.

 It's for Scrappy Bow Tie Blocks.  

Photo from fordcowgirl_85

This type of swap is super fun and easy. 

(I did the same kind of swap with my Red and Turquoise blocks.)

 All you do is sew up a bunch of blocks using what you have, send them in, and get a bunch of different blocks back.

Sign-ups and block instructions can be found here.  

But, Hurry!  Shipping deadline is April 16th!!

Lots of great bow tie inspiration can be seen here.

Me? Modern? Why, Thank You!

 In case you missed it,

 my Scrap-Tastic Quilt is being featured today over at the Modern Quilt Guild Blog 

 as part of their "Use What You Have" Series.

Feeling pretty happy that they chose to included Me!
 I'm in good company.

A little Baby Black and White

Inspired by the Snapshots quilt (pg. 51) in "The Practical Guide to Patchwork" and then adapted based on the amount of scraps (from this quilt) that I had available in my stash to work with, I made this pretty little baby quilt.

So happy with how it turned out.  I might have to try another one in different color combos.
The Snapshots quilt calls for 20 blocks.
I made 9 for a good size baby quilt.

Finished dimensions:
36 1/2" wide by 48 1/2" long.

If you're interested in this quilt you can find it here in my shop.

T-Shirt Series: Putting Your Shirt Together

Sorry, this next post has taken a little longer to get all put together and posted.  Life is happening around here--as I'm sure yours is as well. 

Now that you have some information and a few of our hints for knits we can get started putting a t-shirt together.  You have your correct needle (ballpoint) and now you need to figure out what stitch you are going to use so that your knit fabric will stretch, like it is supposed to, once you are finished with your project.

There are a number of options you can use. 
By all means if you have a Serger use it.  This is probably the best method for knits.  However, you can achieve nice garments without one.  So don't be discouraged and rush right out and buy one.

Most machines are equipped with a some sort of stretch stitch option.

Below are 2 of my (both Kenmore) machines.  The yellow stitches shown on the bottom row are all the stretch stitch options.  Some are more decorative than constructive stitches, but lots of options nonetheless.

I have used mostly #1 and #6 (starting from the left).

You just need to change the stitch length dial (left) to the stretch option to get to those stitches.

 Same thing on this machine, but with not as many options.

Check your manual to see what it recommends. 
Practice and test, then do it again, and again, on some knit scraps. 
You'll find which stitch(es) you are most comfortable with and what gives you the best result based on your machine and settings and the particular fabric you use.

You may think that this is a bit of a cop-out; however, even pattern companies can't agree on the same method to use for knit fabrics.

Just looking at some of my patterns I found that this is what they had to say.

McCalls, Butterick & Vogue

• "Stretch fabric slightly while stitching." 

Really this is a bit vague if you ask me.  What this means is when stitching with a straight stitch.  But otherwise that is their tip.  No other info included in the instructions to help you out.

I have to admit I do use this method a lot. However, (big pause) I've also sewn for a lot of years and kind of have the "feel" for it through trial and error.  If your tension and settings aren't right then the fabric will not hang right or even stretch at all.  (Done that more than once) Or if you stretch more than "slightly" you can completely distort your garment. Or your fabric will distort on its own without you even helping it.  So annoying!  I think this method takes a bit of practice and then it'll change with different types of knits.  So until you've sewn awhile with knits I would recommend finding a stretch stitch on your machine that you like or use the zig-zag method which we talk about below.

Kwik Sew

If you've never sewn with knits before, Kwik Sew really does include the best instructions about sewing with knits (including swimwear).  AND they have pics--even better. I copied the little section that is included on one of the t-shirt patterns I have from Kwik Sew. Click on pic to enlarge and read it easier. 

They also tell you which needle to use (Ballpoint!!)

Simplicity & New Look

• "If you use a zig-zag machine...use a narrow stitch, medium length; trim seam to 1/4" and overcast edges together by machine. If you use a straight stitch...stretch fabric as you sew (unless working on a firm double knit) and sew seams 2 or 3 times close together."

In response to the sew 2 or 3 times close together.  I would only do this on a shoulder seam I think--somewhere where I really don't want the seam to stretch.  I don't ever do this. 

The zig-zag method is Tiffany's go to choice when working with knits.

Here is how she sets up her (White) machine normally.
Top dial is stitch LENGTH
Bottom dial is stitch WIDTH

Length at about 2 1/2 and width at 0.

And then her set up to sew on knits.

Length at 1 and width at about 3 1/2.

And here is a side by side of her zig-zag compared to a straight stitch based on the numbers listed above.

This allows for a lot of stretch and also can use up a lot of thread.  Once she has the fit right on her t-shirt she then goes back over and uses her serger to complete the garment covering up the zig-zag for the most part.  If you don't have a serger, you certainly don't need to use one as the knit will not fray or ravel.  It just makes your garment look more professional.

_____________________________

Having not used this method much I did a little practicing myself to see if I liked it.  I tried to go more on what Kwik Sew recommendations are:  narrow stitch width and medium length, so that I could have a comparison.

So my machine is set up like this.

Left dial is stitch LENGTH and right dial is stitch WIDTH.

After switching my dial to the zig-zag option, I leave my stitch LENGTH where I normally sew--at a 3.

However, I then move the stitch WIDTH to a 1 (more or less).

It would be set at 0 for a straight stitch.

Here is a side by side of my zig-zag option (left) and the straight stitch (right) based on the numbers above.

It sure doesn't look like there is any difference at all in the stitches, but there is a definite difference in the amount of stretch available for the fabric.

I tried this method on a Jersey chevron skirt I just made and loved it.  I'll be showing that a little later.

So I guess the point of this post is this: try a few different stitching options and see what you like best and see what your machine likes best.  Practice all the methods to get a feel for what will happen and then you can make a good choice for you.  There really is no one wrong or right way.  What we're all aiming for is a nicely constructed garment that people will admire.

Up next: Some detail options for hemming, necklines and other adjustments to personalize your tees.

A whole lotta bright fabrics!

This past week I've been trying to work thru my current project pile while not starting anything new!  It has been quite challenging for me as I tend to start more than I finish.   But believe me when I say my WIP list is a mile long!  So no more new until I bust thru some old...

When I was loading my pictures I noticed that all my current projects contained crazy bright fabrics, so this week it's all about the brights!

 

These blocks were part of a swap I did the end of last year.  I needed to make a few more blocks to get the quilt to the size I wanted.  Thankfully I have now finished the extra blocks and have a completed top!

 My doll quilt top is done!  Yay!  I am very happy with how it turned out.  All those tiny pieces worked out just the way I'd hoped.  Now onto quilting options...

This one's got to be done an mailed by April 1st.

 

Whipped up some pinwheel blocks last minute for Carin.  Some might say that these are too bright/ugly for anyone's liking, but I say no. :)  My kids think they are awesome, so I'm guessing some other child will love them, too.  I made enough blocks for a small-ish sized quilt. 

 I'm liking the sub-pattern created by the stripes.

And, finally I busted my way thru the leftovers from my daughter's quilt and ended up having enough for a good sized child's quilt.

It feels great to do some stash clean up.

Sewing Group Night---Shirred Scarves

On Tuesday night this week we had our second sewing night with about 10 ladies in attendance with about half the group that was different from our first night. (and Amber let me know her quilt block is finished so we can add it to the quilt top and then finish it off.)

We followed this great tutorial from Make It and Love It and made shirred scarves using elastic thread.

One of the things I really like about these kind of things is to see what fabric everyone chooses for their project.   It kind of gives you a glimpse into personalities.  Almost everyone got finished. And those who didn't were in a good enough spot that they assured me they could get it done once they got home.  Once again we had some "newbies" as well as those who have sewn for awhile.

I had made a few, yes few, scarves (I do have 3 daughters) before we put this night together.   And even though the "plan" is to share, not everyone likes the same colors, etc.  And it was nice to get rid of some of my scrap stash rather quickly. 

Click HERE for some other elastic thread tips.  Our biggest issue that night was with the tension and getting it adjusted properly for everyone's individual machine.

I highly recommend you practice a bit on some scrap--preferably from your actual fabric for the scarf, but if not, then something similar in weight and stretch. This will give you a feel for how you need to move your fabric as well as to check the tension and make sure it will shirr up like you want. I found that for my machine I didn't like as big of a stitch as was recommended in the tutorial.

For example: The largest stitch length on my machine is 4 and I made my scarves at about a 3. Most of the ladies tonight were using a stitch length of about 3. Only one was a bit longer, at a 5 for her machine. Just check it before diving into your actual scarf project.
_______________________
Materials needed:

• 2/3 yd. knit fabric 60" wide (which is usually how wide knit fabric comes--then cut 2 - 11" wide strips the full 60")
• 1 spool of elastic thread  for the bobbin (one spool will make about 3 scarves & you can find this is in the notions section of your fabric store near the packaged elastic.)
• Thread to match your fabric

_______________________
We might have to do a round 2 of this project as there were a number of ladies who wanted to come and then couldn't because of other commitments.  I'm happy that we're getting a good response and everyone is willing to come try.  Thanks again ladies for a fun evening.

T-Shirt Series: Needles

I think that many a seamstress becomes frustrated sewing with knits because they just don't have the right info and understanding about what they are working with.  I love knits. Tiffany loves knits.  And really they are not that difficult to use if you know a couple of things about them.  Some we've already addressed. 

Our absolutely #1 Tip and MUST do is

use a Ballpoint needle when sewing with knits. 

Let me repeat that once more, use a BALLPOINT needle. 

So what does "ballpoint" mean.  This is going to be either a needle packaged as Jersey / Ballpoint or Stretch needle.  Using one when sewing with knits will make your life so much happier.  Based on the way the different needles are made (and I don't know the details) using a Universal needle on knits will actually cut holes in your fabric so that down the road you will start seeing little tears or runs at the seams of your garment.  I know this from extended experience, before I knew using the right equipment (i.e. needles) can make such a difference.  Ballpoint needles are designed so that they don't damage or break the knit fibers.

So last time...use a Ballpoint needle. 

The slight differences between a Jersey needle and a Stretch needle, per the packaging, are that a Stretch needle is made "for elastic materials and highly elastic knitwear" (i.e. swimwear).  It also says that it is "designed to prevent skipped stitches".  A Jersey needle is "for use on knits and some stretch fabrics." 

There is also a difference in price between a Jersey needle and a Stretch needle.  Having just bought new needles to replenish my supply a 5 count pkg. of Jersey needles was $3.79 and a 5 count pkg. of Stretch needles was $5.49 at Jo-Ann's (before coupons).

 

Stretch needles are coded yellow--you can see this right below the portion of the needle that you position into your sewing machine.

I almost exclusively use a Schmetz Stretch Needle 130/705 H-S size 75/11, exactly as pictured above.
The Schmetz website has great info about needles and their uses.  For as much sewing as I do with swimwear the Stretch needle is my better option.  You wouldn't need it specifically for making t-shirts, unless you are having issues with skipped stitches. 

The other needles you'll probably want to invest in down the road are some Stretch Twin needles.  They come in either a 2,5/75 size of 4,0/75 size. 


Unfortunately, I can only buy these needles at one store here locally, and it isn't Jo-Ann's.  You will need to check your local fabric stores to see if they carry them.  Remember it must say STRETCH.  You can buy twin needles that are Universal, Metallic, Embroidery, or Jeans, but you must have a STRETCH twin when using it on knits.

A Twin needle is great of hemming (still allow some stretch) as well as great details on the collar/neckline to give your garment a more professional finish.

Next up we'll show you some different options for your shirts.

The Mad Hatter {a finished quilt}

Forgive me if I'm not very wordy today.

I wrote this post last night, and when I woke up this morning to post it, there was nothing! 

I have no idea what happened...

So you get version 2.0 which won't be nearly as clever or wordy.

Today is my quilt club day! Yay!

I'm taking this for show and tell.

 It's my completed Mad Hatter Quilt.

(You can read more about it here.)

I had some issues with waviness due to the triangles being cut on the bias. 

You can see that it doesn't exactly lay flat.  

Oh,well.  It was a learning experience.  Next time I will know better.

 For the record, my husband thinks this quilt is "hideously ugly!"

And when I took it to my quilter, her husband agreed! :)

I don't think it's THAT ugly, but I can see their point. 

It's definitely not my taste or style (other than being scrappy), 

But I am choosing to think of it as "beautifully ugly!"

The border fabric is the same as the backing.

It it's previous life it was my daughter's bed sheet, 

until the day she left her mark all over it with a ball point pen.  Nice, huh?

With the addition of the border it now measures 54" by 68".  

In our house that qualifies as a small throw.

I'm sure the ladies will be happy that I've finally finished my "flower garden" quilt.  

I think they have visions of displaying them all together this summer at our town's small quilt show.

We shall see.

Until them, I will add it to the rotation of TV watching/fort making blankets.

Linking up to Quilt Story

Class Quilt--5th Grade 2012

Happy day!  I finished the last class quilt for this school year.

And just in time.  Next weekend is the auction.

The kids did a great job on their blocks.  Some did more than one and some others, mostly boys, only wanted to do one.  But hey, we got at least one from everyone.  And even though I would've preferred it to be 6 across by 7 down I still think this will be large enough to use and stay toasty. 

It'll certainly hide my 6' 2" body.

Details:

Finished measurements:  53" wide by 76" long

Cut 3" blocks to make the 9 patches.

5 blocks across and 7 down for a total of 35 - 9 patch blocks.

3" white strips for the sashing and border.

Thrifted plaid sheet for the backing.

Solid yellow for binding (By the way love this method of attaching binding)

This morning I'll head to school to take a picture of the entire class with their creation.

I have to say that I got smarter this time around and cut out the strip piece for the kids to sign their name.  Instead of going back to class one day after the quilt top was completely put together, I just had them sign a strip(s) when they were putting their block(s) together.  It worked out great.  So they will be surprised when we go take pics.  They haven't yet seen the quilt assembled in any form.

I also linked up over at Crazy Mom Quilts for Finish It Up Friday.

More Class Quilts:

Self Portraits

Hand Prints

2010

A block at a time...

You know we love charitable sewing around here, but sometimes reality proves you can actually do less than your heart desires. 

I'm always on the lookout for meaningful sewing opportunities.  

Last week as I was browsing around I came across this group on flickr. 

 

After some more digging and reading I decided to help out.  Because even though my heart says "I can make a quilt a month for someone in need" my mind says "No you can't!"  So I've decided to focus some of my attention and desire towards this type of thing.  Besides, I've seen what one idea and one person can accomplish with the help of others who are willing to make just one block.  

 Right now this group is working on a quilt for a teenage girl.  So, while in the throngs of doll quilt sewing I took a much needed break and made up a couple blocks.  Easy enough!  

 

 

They are now on their way to a good home!

See the other blocks for this quilt here.

Asterisk tutorial from here.

T-Shirt Series: Purchasing Knit Fabrics

Not all knit fabrics are created equal. 

Once you've sewn with knits a couple of times you'll figure that out.  They stretch different, drape different, and bounce back different after being stretched some.  At times is it hard to distinguish what type of fabric they are talking about when manufacturers use certain names.  Here are a few brief definitions.

Double Knits--usually polyester knit, double knit basically means that the fabric looks exactly the same on both sides.  Ribbing is a good example of a double knit.  These are NOT good for structured garments.  You would use this for cuffs, waistbands, and neckbands.

Fiber content of this particular ribbing (from Jo-Ann's) is 95% cotton and 5% spandex.  The more spandex in the fabric the more stretchy it will be.  Also with spandex in the fiber content it will help the knit "rebound" back better after being stretched. 

Jersey--these knits will curl to the right side of the fabric when stretched on the crossgrain.  Right side shows a knit stitch and wrong side shows a purl stitch.  Drapeable with a moderate stretch. 

 This shows wrong side on left and right side on right

Interlock--Sometimes it is considered a Jersey knit.  However interlock tends to be a cotton / poly blend most common in 60% to 40% ratio.  It may not stretch as much as Jersey nor does it curl at the edges like Jersey does.  Great for making tees.  May not drape as well as other fiber content combinations if you are looking for something to use as embellishments.

Knit Lycra--cotton / lycra blends are used primarily for activewear, i.e. leotards and exercise gear.  Nylon / lycra blends are used for swimsuits and biking shorts.

____________________________________

Here is a stretch knit guide when determining how much stretch a knit fabric has when purchasing for a specific garment.  This is extremely helpful, if you are like me, and purchase a good portion of your fabrics as remnants, with no labeling available.

Stable Knits--this means that the knit stretches less than 10%.  For example: 4" of fabric stretches 1/2" or less. Double knits are an example.

Moderate Stretch Knits--jerseys and interlocks stretch 20-25%.  4" of fabric will stretch 1" to 1 1/4".

Stretch Knits--these knits stretch 50% or 4" will stretch an additional 2".

Super Stretch Knits--includes ribbing and swimwear that stretches 50-100%.  4" can stretch up to 8".

2-Way Stretch--means that the fabric only stretches in either the length or the width.  From a center point on the fabric it only stretches 2 ways: i.e. left and right OR up and down.

4-Way Stretch--means that the fabric stretches in all directions from a center point: left and right AND up and down--4 ways.

You can determine how much stretch is needed for a garment by looking at the pattern envelope.  Usually there will be a gauge printed on the envelope back showing that 4" of fabric needs to stretch to this point.

Here are a few more things to think about when talking about knit fabrics.

1. Pre-wash everything.  Knits shrink more and in larger amounts than woven fabrics.  And if you are like me and you buy end bolts or remnant pieces, the fabric contents aren't always listed on them.  Avoid the headache of garment shrinkage and pre-wash.  In fact some info I read said to wash/dry the fabric at least 3 TIMES before cutting.  This would explain why sometimes my shirts still feel like they've shrunk after prewashing and I've worn them a time or two.
2. Sometimes the excess finish on knits may cause skipped stitches when sewing.  (Just learned that myself--I may be doing more prewashing of swimwear fabric.)
3. Knits do not ravel like woven fabrics, but some may run and curl at the edges. 
4. Since knits do not ravel the seam and hem finishes may be optional. (Save yourself a step and don't worry if you don't own a serger.)

Some info found in "Sew Any Fabric" by Claire Schaeffer and "More Fabric Savvy" by Sanda Betzina.