But I guess that is what happens when you are just winging it.
Frame and paint detail
Hanging in my entry with the real life shoes lying everywhere.
Close-up of metal glued onto the board.
I cut the metal to shape with a pair of tin snips.
Used a jigsaw to cut the board.
The crease on the board is what occurs when you use contact cement--don't quite get it
lined up correctly and quickly try and pull it off to reposition.
You just get a bend in your metal because it IS NOT coming off.
At this point we are calling it "character". I didn't want to start all over.
It would have been too frustrating.
- Originally tried to glue the metal to the board with Liquid Nails. Ughh, thumbs down!! As soon as I took the clamps off the pieces the metal just popped right off. Maybe I wasn't doing it correctly, but I felt it should've been easier to use.
- Contact cement is PERMANENT! You cannot remove it and replace like other products. Once it is down, that is where it is going. In hindsight we should have put the metal into the frame and then laid the glued board down on top of it to get it lined up correctly. Since we didn't I had to go back and trim off metal or wood here and there in order to get the piece to line back up in the frame. And we also have a little crease in the metal after trying to pull it off quickly once we realized it wasn't lined up perfectly.
- Once I got all the coats of paint on and then seasoned the chalkboard it wasn't nearly as noticeable. And I can always strategically place things I am hanging up.
- Thrifted frame and mirror--29 x 45 inches at widest points.
- Roll of Galvanized Steel from Menards for about $20--24 inch by 10 ft. roll
- Rustoleum Chalkboard spray paint
- Contact Cement to attach sheet metal to backing board
- Rustoleum Hammered spray paint for the frame.
You can buy sheets of chalkboard at Home Depot. They are about $10 and measure 2 x 4 feet. That would've worked great for the size I needed except I wanted chalkboard AND magnet board combined.